Masha Ma spoke at the Business of Design Week held on the last day of the 3 week long Business of Design Week. A graduate of the famous design school, Central Saint Martins in the year 2008, her collection was selected for show at London Fashion Week and list an extensive list of accomplishments and successes including being final listed multiple times in competitions that include the Lancôe Colour Designs Award 2006, Chloé’s design competition, the 2009 CCDC Design Contest and wining the Best International Innovation Award and short-listed for both WGSN “BREAKTHROUGH DESIGNER” of the year and Lycra Emerging Talent of the Year.
 

We like her bold and intricate unravelling of the feminine form featuring lots of layering and subtle details. Masha Ma is a hot designer to watch and have attracted the attention of publications such as Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Another Magazine, Pop, Cosmopolitan, Marie Clare and L’Officiel.

She presented key pieces from her Spring 2012 collection at BODW and talks about her success and challenges being a designer.

On what Chinese designers are all about, she has a very interesting insight to share- Chinese designers are looking to reveal what’s beneath the surface as like Chinese culture and art, we have a different perspective that we are looking to express with fashion. Its more subtle and intricate.

Every woman needs the perfect little black dress in their wardrobe – and perfect little black dresses are Paule Ka’s speciality!

Designer Serge Cajifinger started Paule Ka, the French label stocked exclusively at THE SWANK , in 1987 and quickly made classic black dresses, fine tailoring and sophisticated elegance his signature style. His iconic dresses pay tribute to 1950s Hollywood glamour and Audrey Hepburn’s simple but stunning style, mixed with classic Parisian chic but balanced with contemporary bold twists to keep his designs modern yet timeless.

The latest collection depicts a day in the life of a city woman – glamorous, confident, dreamy and stylish, even amongst the daily grind of urban life. We love the versatility of the pieces, which look great for both day and night, and the striking seasonal shades of camel, graphite, black and purple. Does Paula Ke have the perfect dress for you? Let us know!

Where to buy?

• Shop 108, Chater House, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2868 0591
• 3/F Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2523 0233
• Shop 103B, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. Tel: 2175 4228

New Italian designer at the Swank, Ermanno Scervino, has a series of achingly glamorous pieces to covet this fall. Dubbed the “King of Sports Couture,” Ermanno Scervino makes modern glam clothes that use quality fabric and meticulous tailoring. He’s had boutiques in Florence and Cortina d’Ampezzo since the 1970s and started his own label entitled simply ‘Scervino’ in 1997.

Scervino’s fall collection features a glamourous fake fur knee length coat in powder blue and layered beige trimmings, a flowy sexy full length wrap dress with silver dotted embellishment, and a pretty ivory/gold dress. So far, we love what we’re seeing. Tell us what you think…

Where to buy?

Japanese American Cynthia Sakai is the founder and designer behind the Vita Fede jewellery brand. Cynthia started designing at an early age – at the tender age of 18 she launched her first accessories line, Girlboy, and, by 21, had started a multi-line showroom in Los Angeles. When a friend gave her an Italian bracelet as a gift, Cynthia was so inspired with the craftsmanship and immaculate detail that she decided then to design her own collection, which is where Vita Fede coes from – meaning ‘life’ and ‘faith’ in Italian.

We met up with Cynthia when she was in town promoting her jewellery at Harvey Nichols, to talk to her about Vita Fede and how she launched the brand with an order of 10,000 pieces.

Butterboom.com: Describe the style of Vita Fede:

Cynthia Sakai: Very clean, modern lines

Butterboom.com: Describe the typical Vita Fede customer:

Cynthia Sakai: 30 to 45 year olds fashionistas who love a more sophisicated look. There’s also those who have a more rock, funky attitude.

Butterboom.com: Where’s your jewellery made?

Cynthia Sakai: Scandicci, North of Florence in Italy. It’s where Prada and Dior make their jewellery.

Butterboom.com: What are its primary components?

Cynthia Sakai: We like to mix leather with gun metal, light gold (a mix between silver and gold) and rose gold.

Butterboom.com: What really launched Vita Fede into the stratosphere?

Cynthia Sakai: Well, we were featured in People’s magazine only 2 months after starting the business!

Where to buy?

• Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2430 9381

Founded in Rome in 1945 by tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and businessman Gaetano Savini, Brioni quickly earned a reputation for expert tailoring and craftsmanship. The brand made history by redefining the modern men’s suit (emphasizing sleek fashion over bulky warmth) and hosted the world’s first men’s fashion show in Florence in 1952. 

The name Brioni became synonymous with the world of exclusive bespoke men’s fashion based almost entirely on the reputation of their suits, which were worn by icons from John F. Kennedy to James Bond.

Since 1990, Brioni has brought the same emphasis on fine tailoring and exquisite workmanship to the world of women’s fashion, which is why the Fall 2011 collection is especially significant as this is Brioni’s last – the fashion house recently announced it will end womenswear production this year.

The collection itself is a testament to the influence of designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua whose pieces are soft, both in their materials and conception. Think cashmere, duchess silk and lace motifs fashioned into elegant, minimalist garments.

The stripped down, vertical silhouettes contrast with the pieces’ intricate detailing. Heavily textured and layered materials are matched like the caramel coloured matte-crocodile and flashes of bright colours against a backdrop of black, flesh tones and muted tones.

We can only say it’s a shame we won’t be seeing more women’s fashion from Brioni in the future.

This fall, it’s all about fur and Simonetta Ravizza is one Italian label that does fur really well. Her Fall/Winter 2011 collection features lavish ’70s glamour, looking to Jane Birkin and Jean Shrimpton for the classy and sexy allure famous in that era.

We love the bomber fox fur coats and sable fur vests that are glam, sporty and contemporary, all at the same time.

Where to buy?

Milin’s “Ladylike With Attitude” collection took Singapore Fashion Week 2011 by storm and, while the latest “Stage of Mine” collection falls short of the effervescent dreaminess of Spring/Summer 2011 with its clouds and sunset hues, it makes up for it with droves of polished sophistication and unabashedly rich colours.

This powerhouse collection is full of soprano-inspired pieces – think the theatricality of Italian operas such as La Scala – and is all about the glamour of dressing up in impeccably stylized frocks for a night on the tiles.

These voluminous draped cocktail dresses, fur-on-halternecks with a touch of embroidery and sequins, monochrome patterned jackets with whimsically oversized bow ties, and Milin’s signature print treatment – this time rendered in multi-dimensional geometrics – all combined are bound to make one hell of a dramatic entrance.

We spoke exclusively to Milin Yuvacharuskul, one of the three brains behind the label, about this imaginative collection.

Butterboom.com: Can you tell us a bit about your A/W ’11 collection?

Milin Yuvacharuskul: It all started when I fell in love with the theatre in Milan and seeing audiences dress up so elegantly to go to the shows. I wanted to create the same feeling for women to enjoy even they’re not going to the theatre. I also wanted to emphasise the idea that every girl can be the star of her own show and her life is her stage, which is where the collection’s name, Stage of Mine, came from.

Butterboom.com:Do you think it’s important for a designer to have a trademark of her own – something the consumer can recognize – or would you rather be fluid and go with the flow of the season?

Milin Yuvacharuskul: It’s very important that a designer focuses on his or her own designs which distinguishes him or herself from any other brand. It’s also crucial that customers can see one picture or one item and be able to recognize that it’s our brand. As fashion is about change and choice, you always have to adapt your brand with the times and make sure you don’t lose your identity while introducing new trends to customers.

Butterboom.com: Did you get a good grasp of your brand’s direction from the Singapore Blueprint Fair? I heard such good response about it.

Milin Yuvacharuskul: We got a lot of positive feedback from the Fair. But, we’re taking each step we take very carefully because we’re still relatively new to the industry (the brand has just been established for going on 3 years), and now we have a strong customer base in Bangkok, Thailand. We already have some success in Hong Kong as The Collectives represent our brand really well and does a great job. For Singapore, we got Lula Rock to carry our product line, and we’re currently taking our next big step by tapping into the Asia and Australia markets, while the US and Europe are being considered in our future expansion plan.

Butterboom.com: How do the three of you work together so seamlessly? Do you share ideas or do you have very compartmentalized work scopes?

Milin Yuvacharuskul: The reason that all three of us can work seamlessly is because all of us have been friends for more than 10 years. Each of us is specialized in different areas of work: Puchong is in charge of design, Guarboon is in charge of Graphic and Fabric Print, while I take care of the collection concept, design and overall brand direction. All of us respect each other’s opinions and are willing to help each other as much as possible. We have always put work first and leave our egos at the door when making any decisions regarding the brand. It’s always reason over emotion. Finally, we also did a lot of external research by asking a lot of people for advice and their opinions on things.

Butterboom.com: You mentioned Thailand, it’s such a colourful country – full of culture and rich with history – do you ever take inspiration from there?

Milin Yuvacharuskul: Yes, Thailand is such a beautiful country and is full of inspiration. I tend to travel around Thailand to seek out new ideas.

Butterboom.com: Any favourite Thai destinations you would like to share where you go for this inspiration?

Milin Yuvacharuskul: There are so many for me in Thailand but Krabi would have to be one of the best places I would recommend as my mom has five hotels in the area so I basically grew up there and have made many trips back since I was young. I prefer beaches to mountains and the beach in Krabi is so beautiful with clean sand and crystal clear water. I always come back here to recharge my batteries from work and just to relax. It’s heaven!

- By LiYing Lim

Taiwanese American designer WenLan Chia‘s collection Twinkle was recently picked up by Harvey Nichols and we were immediately drawn to her playful designs consisting of creative fantastical prints of birds, abstract art and well sculptured chunky knit sweaters that are going to be all the rage this fall.

WenLan launched her first collection back in 2000 and debuted her runway collection at the Gen Art Fresh Face Fashion Show in February 2002. Her collection won rave reviews by the New York Times and Women’s Wear Daily, and in 2005 she was selected as one of “Spring’s Leading Ladies” – a group of five notable designers compiled by Vogue.

We love her cleaver knit designs that you can wear in many different ways, and she’s got an amazing eye for prints as shown in her beautiful blouses and dresses. Check out her tuxedo jackets, shrunken capelets, chunky sweaters and scarves. We think you’ll love it too!

Twinkle by WenLan collection:

See her video interview here-

How much?

• Dresses costs from HK$2900-$7200
• Sweater, cardigan and jackets starts from HK$3100 to HK$4900

Where to buy?

• Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2430 9381

We caught up with Greyhound’s co-founder and creative director during the Audi Fashion Festival 2011 Singapore.

Greyhound is perhaps one of the earliest and biggest success stories in what was once a lacklustre fashion scene in Bangkok back in the day. Founded in 1980, the street label started off simply as a weekend hobby for co-founder and creative director Bhanu Inkawat but, boy, has it grown in leaps and bounds. Not only is Greyhound now on the world map in top fashion cities like Paris, Berlin and Tokyo (Hong Kong too!), it also has a spin-off label called Playhound for the younger more flamboyant crowd, among other feats.

A former advertising guru, Bhanu duly oversees the Greyhound brand, known for their effortlessly chic and cool, easy-to-wear contemporary clothes, while also spearheading the label’s menswear. We spoke to the Thai fashion trailblazer hours before the premiere of Greyhound Autumn/Winter 2011 Collection at the Audi Fashion Festival 2011 Singapore. Here, Bhanu talks about the inspiring “Peace Please” debut collection, what the brand’s concept of “basic with a twist” means – and then some.

Butterboom.com: What can we expect to see in tonight’s showcase of your Autumn/Winter collection premiering at the Audi Fashion Festival?

Bhanu Inkawat: The collection called “Peace Please” is about a symbolic troop of a new generation who bring a message. There are statements like “Silence” and “Make Love Not War” embroidered and screen-printed on t-shirts and jackets which we hope act as a wake-up call to help change the world. Look at what’s happened to the world around us now, like the unrest going on in Thailand with Thai people fighting against each other. Or the earthquakes in Japan and natural disasters everywhere. It’s time to do something.

Butterboom.com: What should we look out for in your collection?

Bhanu Inkawat: Look out for the new print from Greyhound. The “camouflage” pattern on t-shirts, jackets, skirts and scarves which we present in a new color palette of light greys, whites and nudes – all very neutral colors. We’re inspired by the attitude from people like John Lennon and Yoko Ono who promoted world peace with their ‘Bed-In’ demonstrations. Also, watch out for our peace design done in lace, which is hand-knitted and joined one by one to form the fabric.

Butterboom.com: Would you say there are certain Thai design sensibilities in Greyhound clothing? How does being Thai influence your approach to design?

Bhanu Inkawat: Well, there’s no traditional type, it’s more of a contemporary feel about Bangkok in our look. Bangkok’s a very hectic city with chaos everywhere. The different cultures, food and lifestyles are all mixed up but they go well together. You know, you’ll never find a country with so many different colored cabs – it’s only in Bangkok. It’s like a beautiful chaos with a mix-and-match, anything-goes kind of attitude that is something we borrow from the city and inject into our collections. Every new collection has a new mix of this, a new mix of that and that’s what’s so ‘Bangkok’ about Greyhound.

Butterboom.com: Describe Greyhound’s style and image.

Bhanu Inkawat: Greyhound is “basic with a twist.” When you look at a white shirt, you think it’s just a white shirt. But if you look at the details, there’s always a twist somewhere – either a pattern, cutting, fabric or seams and stitches here and there that makes it different. We always stay true to this essence.

Butterboom.com: Describe the type of man/woman who wears Greyhound clothing.

Bhanu Inkawat: I was from an advertising background so when I started off a lot of my friends in the creative field wore my clothes. And then they bring in their friends too, so these people are our core customers: people in design, interior design, architecture and advertising.

Butterboom.com: What motivates you to be in the fashion business for so long?

Bhanu Inkawat: It’s not just fashion. For me, it’s more the idea of doing something, creating something. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a collection or a new shop or new project. You put together concepts and ideas and start to see them form into reality, slowly. That’s what intrigues me and I find that very enjoyable. Sometimes, things don’t go the way you want but it leads to a new direction.

Butterboom.com: As a fashion designer, what do you think are the 5 must-haves in any stylish Asian girl’s summer wardrobe and why?

Bhanu Inkawat: She should have clothing in different lengths, like midi or maxi dresses. Short sleeves are great for summer, but it’s not the normal short but a little longer or elbow length or even longer. Also skirts with flowy, slim lines which is the new silhouette now. Colors too. And this goes on to next winter which is very strange because, usually, there’s a lot of gray and black but this year a lot of big brands are doing color. I think the world is sad enough, perhaps that’s why they need to cheer the world up with our clothing. Accessories are coming on strong too, like necklaces with unique forms and those that are bulky and dramatic.

Butterboom.com: Where is Greyhound sold, internationally and in Asia?

Bhanu Inkawat: We work with a lot of multi-brand stores in different countries like Traffic in Moscow and Paris; Monsterthreads in Sydney; Fourstore in Berlin and Opia shop in Zurich. We also work with Round in Japan; CK Tangs and Front Row in Singapore; Seibu and LCX in Hong Kong.

Butterboom.com: What about price range and the best country to buy Greyhound clothing?

Bhanu Inkawat: Our prices are mid-range. We’re not cheap but, at the same time, not too expensive, especially when you look at our quality. The “camouflage” pattern that’s made into a lace dress costs around $HK300. It’s very affordable, is of good quality and has interesting details. That’s one thing that Thai brands have: craftsmanship. And we can offer better pricing. Of course, Bangkok’s the best place to get Greyhound! You get the full collection.

Butterboom.com: Greyhound is sold in many countries now. What are your plans for Greyhound in the next 1-2 years?

Bhanu Inkawat: We’ll continue to expand especially in the Asian region and also in Vietnam. We’re doing very well there, working with 31 Boutique, which is a multi-brand store. The orders have grown and, hopefully, we’ll open our concept shop soon. We’re also looking out for more local partners who love Greyhound, who understand our brand and know how to nurture our clothing in the local market.

Butterboom.com: So basically, you’re growing your empire?

Bhanu Inkawat: Oh no, it’s not really an empire. We’ve just started. It’s far from global big brands. We’re still very small!

Where to buy?

• Seibu Department Store, Pacific Place & Langham Place, Hong Kong.
• LCX, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong.

Finally, individual eyewear that suits every look and style and really fits Asians’ facial features in The Armoury. We managed to catch a brief chat with the designer himself, Naoki Nakagawa, during his 3 day visit in Hong Kong introducing his label Nackymade which feature handmade spectacles by the designer himself.

Nakagawa is one of the very few individuals in the world who is able to make a pair of spectacles from beginning to end. He is a unique artisan who has turned his hand towards the pursuit of a truly handmade spectacle frame designed and crafted by himself to suit mostly Asian but also Western features with custom nose-bridge pieces. Each of his designs is identical and comes with inspiration from animals like dinosaurs, prawns and even crab claws on each arm of the frame. Nakagawa counts celebrities & TV personalities in Japan as huge fans including a personal order from Yoko Ono herself.

Prices start at $2500 for frames and a limited selection from his latest trunk show collection are available at The Armoury.

Where?

• The Amoury, Pedder Building 3F, 12 Pedder Street, Central Tel: 2804 6991

How to get there?

• MTR Stop: Central Exit D1, turn right to Pedder Building.